How Was Sicily?

How was Sicily? I’m excited to answer and yet I feel my response is not adequate. My usual answer is, ‘it was great’. So, I find myself searching for the quick response, the right word that is fitting. The truth is there is no quick answer to the question ‘how was Sicily’. How can there be? A region of Italy with layers upon layers of history, mountains, active volcanos, majestic architecture and rich agriculture. If I had a few minutes to answer the question I would say, Sicily was:

Adventurous. It’s an island, but it’s a big island! In about 4 weeks we only discovered about one half of the island. The adventure is getting from place to place and finding the ideal route for the many places to visit. We travelled by planes, trains, cars, boats, scooters, cable cars and by endless walking as we discovered new places. There is nothing like finding your way and seeing a place for the first time with fresh eyes.

Historical. Sicily has a way of preserving its long history like no other place. Palermo is considered the most conquered city in the world, and its streets are dotted with historical monuments, and so many are just minutes apart. We visited the magnificent cathedral built in the 2nd century, where we could marvel at the city from its rooftop. Not far from our apartment was the crossroads of the 4 corners, ‘quatro canti’ where each street corner has a 4 layered convex building that tells a story of rulers. Behind one of the corners is the impressive Pretoria Fountain, a statue of nudes. Down the opposite end of the street was the Teatro Massimo, Europe’s second largest opera house which is also where the dramatic last scene of the Godfather trilogy takes place. The city is old, and that’s its charm, but in no way is it not modern with all the conveniences. Later, during our trip, we visited the beautiful towns of Ragusa and Noto to see the extraordinary baroque cathedrals that were part of a rebuild from a devastating earthquake that struck the region in 1693. Going even further back in history, we strolled along the path in Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples where incredibly well preserved ancient Greek temples stand. And, going even further back in time we were pleasantly lost through the tiny alleyways that open into magnificent piazzas in the small ancient town of Ortigia. Ortigia’s Cathedral of Syracusa is built upon the ancient Temple of Athena, and while inside (and outside) the cathedral you can touch these ancient columns. These columns are from the same era as the Parthenon in Athens, about 5th century BC, but in Athens it isn’t possible for any visitor to get close enough to touch them. Ortigia is more than ancient, it’s biblical. Ortigia was founded by the Corinthians about 2700 years ago and mentioned in the bible as Syracuse. The history in Sicily is endless, and as a visitor it’s so easy to get lost in time.

Mythical. How could a freshwater stream co-exist by the salty waters of Mediterranean Sea? This question has perplexed generations. The mythical story of the Fountain of Arethusa describes how the god Alpheus had such a great desire for the nymph Arethusa, but Arethusa did not reciprocate that desire. She pleaded with the goddess Diana to transform her into a freshwater stream. But Alpheus was determined to have her in any form, that he also turned himself into a freshwater stream. He found her and now their souls are forever intertwined in the Fountain of Arethusa in the town of Ortigia. While staying in Ortigia we had an epic apartment that overlooked the Mediterranean Sea on one side and looked down into the Fountain of Arethusa on the other side. It was easy to get lost in the wonder of mythology as we sat out on our juliette balconies and enjoyed the local wine from Mount Etna’s nutrient rich soil.

Volcanic. The island of Sicily and the sparkling waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea are a concentration of a beautiful facade of what lies beneath. The ever-erupting Stromboli, known as ‘the lighthouse of the Mediterranean’, and not far on Sicily’s mainland is Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano.

We visited the Aeolian island of Lipari, one of the 7 islands of the volcanic archipelago in the Tyrrhenian Sea. As we scooted around the island exploring, we could see the power of nature from Stromboli, a perfect cone shaped island erupting every minute. Once back on mainland Sicily, Mount Etna was awake and perfectly in view from our balcony. How could we sleep knowing lava was quietly flowing out of Mount Etna right beside us?! Afterward we visited the city of Catania, known as the ‘dark city’ who’s buildings are blackened by the soot and ashes of Mount Etna. We left the bustling city of Catania and we did a trip up the volcano to observe Mount Etna from up close. Slowly the green landscape ended, and we were in high winds on dark barren gravel looking into old craters and close to the smoke billowing out of Mount Etna.

Seductive. The baroque beauty and the ancient towns, the bustling cafes, the sparkling blue sea, the abundance of fresh and delicious foods and the seductive beach town of Cefalu and hilltop town of Taormina. In Cefalu we lived in a small apartment in little alleyway that was 2 minutes up from the beach. We strolled through the streets to the cafes, the cathedral, the restaurants, enjoyed the beach and waited for the sunset. We picked up some groceries and in tiny store where I was excited and nervous to use some of my learned Italian, and at the end of our stay in Cefalu we did some laundry and hung it up on our clothesline out the balcony. It was like living inside an enchanting Italian fairy-tale, and it was perfect. Taormina was very similar. A chic, trendy town filled with shops, cafes and restaurants in its never ending lit up staircases that are filled with people enjoying life. During a dinner on one of those patio staircases, an opera singer strolled by singing O’Sole Mio as his acoustics bounced through the alleyways and against the buildings. We walked up to the Teatro Greco, the ancient Greek theatre perched up on a hill that overlooks the sea and Mount Etna, contemplating could there be a more perfect place to see a show, a play, or an outdoor concert. From the town of Taormina, we took a cable car down to the beach and to Isola Bella, a beautiful tiny island that is linked to the mainland by a path of underwater stones.

So, how was Sicily? I haven’t even described the food or its kind and welcoming people. How much more time do you have?