Northern France
Embarking on a journey through Paris, the Loire Valley, Normandy, and Bruges promises an enchanting exploration of history, culture, and picturesque landscapes. We simply didn’t want to leave after 15 days. This travel plan emphasizes wandering and exploration, rather than focusing on museums and typical tourist attractions. Let’s dive into the highlights of this captivating springtime itinerary.
Paris:
Begin your adventure in Paris. Explore the neighborhoods, stroll along the Seine, marvel at iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, and savor croissants at charming cafés. There is so much to see in Paris and the best way to do it by foot and discover for yourself hidden gems.
Loire Valley:
Châteaux: Immerse yourself in the Loire Valley’s fairy-tale castles. Explore Château de Chambord, with its intricate architecture, and Château de Chenonceau, gracefully spanning the River Cher.
Amboise: Discover Amboise, where Leonardo da Vinci spent his final years. Visit the Clos Lucé, his former residence.
Brittany:
St. Malo: discover the captivating coastline town of St. Malo. The heart of St. Malo is a beautiful medieval walled city that the allies heavy bombed during WWII to liberate it from the German occupation. It was 80% destroyed. After the war ended it was restored to its original medieval glory. It’s incredible!
Normandy:
D-Day Landing Beaches: History echoes along the beaches of Omaha, Utah, Juno, Sword, and Gold. Stand on the hallowed ground where pivotal World War II events unfolded.
Bayeux: Visit Bayeux, one of the first town to be liberated after D-Day by the allies. Be humbled by the many ‘thanks to our liberators’ signs and the American, Canadian and British flags being displayed as a symbol of gratitude.
Mont Saint Michel: Discover the jewel of Normandy.
Honfleur: Wander through the charming harbor town of Honfleur, known for its colorful buildings, the maritime heritage and the birthplace of impressionism art.
Bruges (Belgium):
Medieval Magic: Cross into Belgium and arrive in Bruges, a city frozen in time. Its medieval streets, canals, and historic buildings create an enchanting atmosphere.
Chocolate and Waffles: Indulge in Belgian chocolates and waffles—you won’t regret it!
World War I Memorials and Cemeteries:
Scattered across Belgium and the Haute France region in France, you’ll encounter poignant memorials dedicated to World War I. These sites serve as powerful reminders of the sacrifices made during that tumultuous period.
This was our 17 day itinerary:
| Day | Highlights | Overnight |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | This is the travel day. Getting to the airport and overnight flight to Paris. | In flight |
| Day 2 | Arrive in Paris. Walk to the Louvre and along the Seine up to Arc de Triomphe. | Paris |
| Day 3 | Exploring Paris. Notre Dame, St. Germain, Eiffel Tower. | Paris |
| Day 4 | Exploring Paris. Opera House, Le Marais. | Paris |
| Day 5 | Leave Paris and arrive in Amboise. | Amboise |
| Day 6 | Chateau Chenonceau and Chateau de Chambord. | Amboise |
| Day 7 | Château du Clos Lucé. Town of Montresor. | Amboise |
| Day 8 | Drive to Saint-Malo and explore the Intra-Muros. | Saint-Malo |
| Day 9 | Mont Saint Michel. | Saint-Malo |
| Day 10 | Drive to Bayeux. Explore American WWII sites. | Bayeux |
| Day 11 | Explore Canadian and British WWII sites. | Bayeux |
| Day 12 | Drive to Honfleur, and explore town. | Honfleur |
| Day 13 | Hike in Etretat. | Honfleur |
| Day 14 | Drive to Bruges. | Bruges |
| Day 15 | Explore Bruges and do a canal boat tour. | Bruges |
| Day 16 | Leave Bruges. Explore WWI sites. | Chevrières |
| Day 17 | Fly home. | Home |
Day 1 - Travelled to Paris on Air Canada direct flight.
Day 2 - Paris: Arrived in Paris Charles de Gaulle airport. We stayed at the Hôtel Provinces Opéra - Vacances Bleues and picked this hotel because it was fairly central, highly rated yet reasonable. To get to the hotel from the airport, we had several options and chose the express train to Gare du Nord. Gare du Nord is high traffic train station known for pick pocketers, so if you find yourself needing to get to this train station, or for that matter any train station in Europe, mind your bags and keep valuables out of reach of pick pocketers. From Gare du Nord we walked a couple of blocks south to the hotel. After unpacking we head out to wandered the various streets and neighbourhoods while heading to the Louvre museum. Along the way we snacked on some crepes from one of many crepe street vendors. While being extremely tired from lack of sleep and jet lag, we continued our walk through the peaceful Jardin des Tuileries to the beautiful Pont Alexandre III bridge and then to the Arc de Triomphe. Unbelievably after all this walking we managed to walk back to the hotel and have a late dinner at a wonderful Italian restaurant very close to the hotel called, IT - Italian Trattoria Bonne Nouvelle.
Day 3 - Paris: Our adventure began as we left the hotel and stumbled upon a charming pedestrian street—one that harbored the oldest Parisian boulangère, Strohrer, on Rue Montorgueil. There, we surrendered to the first of many indulgences, almond croissants and pain au chocolat, and coffee. Energized, we continued our leisurely stroll, eventually arriving at the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral.
Along the Seine, nostalgia tugged at us, prompting the purchase of prints of Paris—much like we had done years ago during a previous visit. Our next stop was the Panthéon, where history and grandeur converged. We picked up some baguettes and refreshing drinks for a delightful picnic in the Luxembourg Gardens, near the Medici Fountain.
Refueled, we ventured onward, reaching the charming square of rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, where Emily in Paris is filmed. Before fully immersing ourselves in the trendy St. Germain neighborhood, we couldn’t resist indulging in a delicate meringue pastry. And so, with shopping bags in hand, we embraced the vibrant pulse of St. Germain—a neighborhood that effortlessly blends history, style, and Parisian flair. We continued to meander through the historic LeMarais neighborhood was we walked back to the hotel.
This evenings restaurant of choice was very close to the hotel. The ambiance was incredible and the food was absolutely delicious. Brasserie Rosie Lou, located on Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle.
Next stop was Place du Trocadéro to secure a spot for viewing of the Eiffel Tower light show, which takes place on the hour, every hour from sundown till 1 AM, with the lights sparkling for a full 5 minutes. If you plan on going up the Eiffel Tower, I recommend make a reservation in advance using the Eiffel Tower official site up to 2 months in advance because it does fill up.
Day 4 - in Paris: This morning we walked to the Palais Garnier (Paris Opera House) and lined up for entry. This opera house was definitely worth waiting for. It is magnificent inside. With all the great cafes everywhere there is no need for a Starbucks, but, there is a beautiful Starbucks near the the Palais Garnier that is worth a visit since it’s in the area. It’s huge and resembles a palace inside and it could unofficially be the most beautiful Starbuck in the world.
Next stop is the shopping mall, Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, but this no ordinary shopping mall. Nothing is cheap in this mall, but you can go up to the terrace for a free 360 view of the city of Paris and this alone is well worth a visit!
For dinner this evening we walked back the Le Marais neighborhood and discovered Rue Rambuteau. The area is lively with many people and an abundance of restaurants. For dessert, we stopped at Bachir for some delicious organic ice cream. This is a very popular ice cream shop, the line is long but goes very fast.
Day 5 - Amboise: Time to leave Paris. There is no need for a car while in Paris, but definitely nice to have to explore France. Early on in the travel planning we booked a car to pick up at Charles de Gaulle airport and return to Charles de Gaulle airport on the day we flew back home. See tips on Booking Cars post. Rather than sitting in traffic in a taxi to reach the airport, we took the express train leaving from Gard du Nord, which was a 15 minute walk from the hotel, and of course picked up a chocolate croissant on the way.
And so, we left the hustle and bustle of Paris for the quite French countryside of the Loire Valley. We drove to the town of Amboise and checked into a castle hotel, Chateau des Arpentis where stayed in the Blue Room which had a wonderful view of the gardens, the graceful horses roaming freely beyond, and to the right the swimming pool. After exploring the hotel, gardens and taking many photos we went into the town of Amboise which was only a 5 minute drive. We climbed to the the Château d’Amboise. This chateau was a favourite of French nobility and today you can admire the restored interior, the gardens and the panoramic views of the Loire river. Before dinner we walked along the Loire River and crossed the main bridge for magical views of the town of Amboise and the chateau. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at restaurant called L’Ambacia.
A note about Amboise. With the abundance of towns being recommended to stay in the Loire Valley, I’m so glad that we choose Amboise. Amboise is large enough that it offers a variety of restaurants, shops, grocery stores so you don’t have to go too far out of your way, but it’s also small, incredible charming and close to many of the popular chateaux in the Loire Valley.
Day 6 - Amboise: We had plans to visit Chateau Chenonceau and Chateau de Chambord, but we were so mesmerized by Chateau Chenonceau that we spent most of the day at this castle and ended up skipping Chateau de Chambord. Plans can change when creating your own travel plans and it’s one of the benefits of self planned travel, just being in the moment and not rushing to keep to a schedule. We had previously watched 2 shows that made Chateau Chenonceau so interesting: Medici, which really had nothing to do with Chenonceau but rather the family links of the famous Italian Medici family with Chenonceau, and the show Serpent Queen which was mostly about the life of Catherine d’Medici and her life in France at Chenonceau. Later on in this trip we would explore World War I & II sites in France and while at the chateau we discovered fascinating facts of how this chateau was used in World War I & II. We took our time exploring the chateau, the gardens, the forest and the river. We had lunch in the garden and before we left we got lost in the maze.
Day 7 - Amboise: Today we visited the nearby Château du Clos Lucé. This chateau was gifted by the King of France to Leonardo DaVinci in the year 1516. DaVinci spent the last years of his life at this chateau. We toured the chateau and all the rooms that illustrated his life while living here. Outside the chateau are the beautiful gardens that are not only beautiful to look at but also demonstrate his many inventions. At the far end of the gardens is a new building that offers a DaVinci immersive experience and gift shop. In the afternoon we went to a nearby town that is listed as being one of the prettiest towns in France, Montresor. This evening we had dinner in Amboise at Via Roma, for delicious pizza and local wine and afterwards returned our castle hotel for pictures while enjoying a bottle of wine during the twilight hour.
Day 8 - Saint-Malo: Time to leave the Loire Valley region and head to the north western region of France known as Brittany. With much anticipation we arrived at the historic seaside town of Saint-Malo shortly after lunch. Saint-Malo is a town that was 80% destroyed by the WWII allied bombing during the liberation of this town from the German occupation. Amazingly the town was rebuilt to it’s original medieval architecture salvaging as much of the original stone that could be salvaged in the rubble. This is the town in the Netflix show and Pulitzer Prize winning novel, ‘All the Light We Cannot See’ about a blind girl who was sending secret messages to the allies during the 6 days of the battle for this town. Highly recommended! The old town is called the Intra-Muros and it’s surrounded by ramparts. We checked into our super cute AirBnb that was located in the Intra-Muros with lovely views of the harbour and ramparts. Car access is limited in the Intra-Muros, and cars must be parked at one of several large parking lots that surround the Intra-Muros. After checking-in, we were anxious to explore the town. We walked along the ramparts and admired all the fantastic views of the town and the sea. Along the way we came up to a statue of Jacques Cartier, the French explorer who is known for naming ‘Canada’ as he set sail from Saint-Malo. As you look out towards the sea you can see a fort on what appears to be a little island. Luckily the tide was low and we were able to access the fort by crossing the Bon Secours beach. After we finished walking along the ramparts that surround the old town we explorer inside the old town. It’s absolutely beautiful and quaint. There is an abundance of boulangeries, shops and restaurants. Yes it’s touristy, but well worth seeing.
Day 9 - Mont Saint-Michel: Our day began with a scenic drive to the enchanting Mont Saint-Michel, nestled on the coast of Normandy. The drive was about 50 minutes, but just 30 minutes into our journey we could see the majestic sanctuary in the horizon. Parking at Mont Saint-Michel is over 2 kilometers away from the rock. We faced a choice: shuttle buses or a leisurely walk. Opting for the latter, we embarked on a footbridge adventure. Brace yourself though, depending on the time of year it can be very windy. As we stepped through the main entrance into the village, it felt like we’d wandered into a real-life Diagon Alley from the Harry Potter universe. Cobblestone streets, charming shops, and hidden alleys. We explored the village, soaking in various viewpoints of the bay as we ascended toward the abbey. The abbey. It’s architecture stood as a testament to centuries past—a sight not to be missed. There was an entrance fee that we purchased before entering the village. We marveled at the intricate stonework, the play of light through ancient windows, and the sense of history lingering in the air. The weather played its own symphony throughout the day: wind, rain, clouds, and unexpected bursts of warm sunshine. So, pack your layers and embrace all seasons. After our abbey adventure, we descended back to the village, for lunch at one of the many creperies, offering crepes and galettes—a perfect midday treat. Heading back to the parking lot, we faced another choice: shuttle bus or a second walk. We chose the latter, savoring the views, the salty breeze, and the feeling of being part of this magical place. We returned to Saint-Malo, stopping at the butter museum. A few tastings later, we surrendered to our sweet cravings at Kouign, indulging in the most divine apple pastries before dinner. Mont Saint-Michel & Saint-Malo - a day etched in wonder, like pages from a fairy tale.
Day 10 - Bayeux: Our day unfolded like a chapter from a poignant novel as we drove from Saint-Malo to Bayeux via Omaha Beach. The touching scenery of little towns along the way adorned with Canadian, American, and British flags, fluttering proudly in the breeze. It felt surreal, as if we were celebrating Canada Day on foreign soil.
We are in Normandy during the 80th D-Day Celebrations—a time of both celebration and solemn reflection. D-Day, June 6, 1944, marked the beginning of the end of World War II. Three nations—Canada, the US, and Great Britain—converged, assembling 130,000 troops for the largest invasion in history.
Our first stop: Omaha Beach, where American soldiers once landed. The town buzzed with activity—current American soldiers marched in full uniform while vintage green army jeeps and medical vehicles crisscrossed the streets, and flags adorned every alley. Before going into the American museum we had lunch in a large army tent that was setup with picnic tables. It felt like we were part of something very special being here. We stepped into the American Overlord Museum, and wandered through exhibits that chronicled the geopolitical climate before, during, and after the war. Inside the museum, tanks, rifles, uniforms and sounds—all whispered stories of sacrifice and courage.
Next, the American Cemetery—a solemn place perched on a cliff overlooking Omaha Beach. Rows of crosses stood in silent tribute. Inside the visitor center, the story of D-Day unfolded hour by hour—a moving account that left us spellbound.
We arrived in Bayeux —a medieval town that had witnessed liberation by the Allies. Flags still fluttered, celebrating freedom. Our charming Airbnb apartment welcomed us, and as we strolled through the streets, we admired shopfronts decorated with cartoon characters, each whispering a heartfelt “Thank you to our liberators.” Bayeux—a town where history and gratitude intertwined.
Day 11 - Bayeux: Another reflective day. We left our apartment and headed to Beny-sur-Mer, the site of the Canadian War Cemetery. After wandering through the cemetery and paying our respects, we continued to Juno Beach, the landing site for Canadian soldiers on D-Day. Walking along the boardwalk, we discovered Canada House, a home decorated with Canadian flags. As we read the plaque in front, the lovely lady who owned the house waved us over and welcomed us inside. This house is known as Canada House because it was the first house liberated by the Canadians on D-Day. The living room was filled with artifacts, souvenirs, and an actual WWII soldier's uniform donated to the homeowner. She guided us through the room, sharing stories of soldiers returning and looking out the living room window, asking what happened to the seawall that once protected them on the beach. She explained that the seawall is still there, buried under the sand. It was an unexpected and wonderful tour of Canada House by its current owner.
Our next stop was the Juno Beach Centre, a permanent memorial to Canadians who served in WWII with a commerative exhibit at the end called Faces of Canada Today. The memorial building was beautiful and moving, ending with a powerful film called ‘They Walk with You’ that left no dry eye.
The day wasn't over yet. We then visited the British War Memorial located in Ver-sur-Mer, overlooking Gold Beach an impressive outdoor tribute listing the names of all the British soldiers killed in Normandy. As we walked towards the beach, we saw a huge art installation called Standing with Giants, featuring silhouettes of the British soldiers who died on D-Day. Over the past two days, our minds and hearts had been overflowing with knowledge and gratitude.
To cap off these two very moving days, at midnight, we drove from our apartment in Bayeux to a nearby beach location. That night, fireworks were set off simultaneously at the five landing beaches. It was both somber and celebratory, but the most memorable part was seeing so many French families, along with their young children, come out so late at night to remember what happened on these beaches 80 years ago.
Day 12 - Honfleur: Before leaving Bayeux we stopped at one of the prettiest boulangeries, Pâtisserie À La Reine Mathilde, for coffee and pane au chocolat. This is the type of bakery I could sit in all day, it had classic charm with a grand chandelier. The drive from Bayeux to Honfleur is about an hour and half. As we drove into Honfleur, I couldn’t believe the great location of our AirBnB. Just around the corner from the apartment, we were right in the heart of the port, shops and restaurants, and conveniently a huge car park was right outside the apartment building and right beside Le Jardin Retrouvé a beautiful public garden if you want to escape the harbour crowds. Honfleur- a cute medival town where you feel that Belle and Gaston from Beauty and the Beast will pop out, a true storybook feel. It’s also the birthplace of impressism art style where Claude Monet studied. We spent the day exploring the little village of Honfleur, walking through the little streets, wandering in the shops and having many indulences and pastries along the way. There is usually a local outdoor market (weather permitting) right beside Église Sainte Catherine, one of the oldest wooden churches in France. After shopping we took a break and enjoyed a couple of drinks at one of several outdoor patio restaurants that line the harbour. The specialty for dinner in many of the restaurants is mussels as they are fresh and caught everyday. They are delicious and a must try in one of the many sauces offered.
Day 13 - Etretat: After enjoying a coffee and pain au chocolat for breakfast, we embarked on a 1 hour drive to Étretat. En route, we crossed the Pont de Normandie, a remarkable toll cable-stayed bridge spanning the mouth of the Seine River, connecting Honfleur to Le Havre. Upon arrival in Étretat, we found a large parking lot near the town center and began our hike. Étretat, a town in northern France, is famed for its white, picturesque cliffs, extraordinary rock formations, and pristine white sand beach. A trail runs along the cliff's edge, accessible via several staircases. We explored various cliffs, savoring the shifting views throughout the day. Carrying snacks or a small picnic is advisable to enjoy the majestic scenery from the summit, though the hike becomes more strenuous the further you venture. After roughly three hours of hiking, we dined at one of the local restaurants before visiting Les Jardins d'Étretat, a breathtaking garden with splendid views of the cliffs. It was a beautiful and unforgettable day. We then returned to Honfleur for dinner and some last-minute shopping in this charming storybook town.
Day 14 - Bruges: We departed from the charming town of Honfleur and set our sights on Bruges, Belgium. Despite its proximity on the map, it was one of our longer drives on this trip, taking about 4 hours. Our desire to explore Bruges was strong, but we were equally drawn by the World War I memorial sites, many of which are located in Belgium. We planned to visit these after our two-day stay in Bruges. We reached our quaint hotel, Dukes’ Arches, in Bruges' old town by mid-afternoon. It was nestled in a quieter neighborhood, which was ideal. Parking in the old town is limited to a few lots, costing around 30 euros per day. Street parking meters are available but are intended for short-term use. Our hosts at the hotel suggested parking in a public lot near the police station outside the old town, which was free if we didn't mind a 25-minute walk. As enthusiasts of walking and exploration, we chose the complimentary parking option. We spent the rest of the day exploring the old town of Bruges. We made our way to the main square known as the Markt, where we enjoyed some Belgium beer at one of the many restaurants that lined the town square facing the city's most famous landmarks, the 12th-century Belfry Tower.
Day 15 - Bruges: Belgium: Like most morning, we set off to find the best bakery for our usual cafe and pane au chocolat. Our choice was Patisserie Schaeverbek and equal as nice was the one right across the street, 't Staelyzer, where I was actually able to get a coffee to-go. After 15 days of wonderful coffees, I was craving a coffee in large to-go cup as we began exploring more of Bruges. We set off to enjoy Bruges in the beautiful sunshine. Our first discovery was the picturesque St Bonifacius Bridge that we stumbled upon as we were working our way back to the Markt Square. Upon reaching Markt Square, we were surprised to find a huge market, which we learned takes place from Wednesday to Saturday. The market offered an array of indulgences, from fresh fruits to roasted chicken and waffles. We chose a pint of locally grown strawberries, which were the best we had ever tasted. Later, we strolled to the nearby docks for a guided canal tour, an essential experience in Bruges. After the canal tour we made our way back to the Markt for lunch, and for dessert we stopped at one of the many waffle houses. Bruges is a very walkable city, and as we continued strolling through Bruges we passed by the Bruges City Hall in Burg Square, Church of Our Lady, Groeninge Museum and the Torture Museum. We stopped for a self-guided brewery tour at Bourgogne des Flandres brewery, a beautiful spot for some very good beer and an amazing view of the canal. We ended the day with burgers for dinner at Bohemian Burgers, the burgers and the environment was perfect after a busy and exhausting day.
Day 16 - Belgium & France
On the final day of our unforgettable and heartfelt journey, we dedicated our time to visiting Canadian World War I memorials scattered between Belgium and Northern France, in the region now known as Hauts-de-France. Although we couldn't visit every memorial, we managed to see several that hold significant meaning for Canadians. Along the way, we often spotted wild poppies blooming by the roadside or in the fields.
The first stop was Passchendaele, where Canadian soldiers had to endure horrific climate conditions. At the memorial is an iron gate known as Canada Gate, and its twin gate located in Halifax, Nova Scotia is named The Last Steps Memorial Arch. The two arches symbolize a portal between Passchendaele and Halifax, the place in Canada where these soldiers left Canada, and sadly, for many the last glimpse of Canada they would see.
Next was the Tyne Cot Cemetery, the largest Commonwealth Cemetery in the world and the final resting place of more than 12000 Commonwealth soldiers. The next memorial in Belgium was the Brooding Soldier, an impressive, tall sculpture of a Canadian soldier looking sadly downward. This memorial is for Canadian soldiers who withstood the first-ever gas attack by the Germans. The final stop in Belgium was Menin Gate in Ypres, an iconic memorial to the missing soldiers of the Commonwealth who passed through here on their way to battle. A moving ceremony takes place every evening at 8 p.m. at Menin Gate to honour and remember soldiers who fought and died in Ypres during the World War I.
Throughout the day, our hearts were filled with remembrance and gratitude, but we had one final memorial to visit as we re-entered into France: Vimy Ridge. Vimy Ridge is a significant historical site in France. The Vimy Ridge Memorial stands as a tribute to all Canadian soldiers who fought and died in France during the First World War. The memorial, located on the site of the battle, is a powerful symbol of sacrifice and remembrance, featuring a towering monument and preserved trenches and tunnels. The three figures on the monument; the grieving mother, the grieving father, and the grieving cloaked woman, that represents Canada—a young nation mourning her dead, are very powerful and reflective images. It serves as a reminder of the courage and resilience of those who served and the enduring impact of their contributions on Canadian history.
We concluded this memorial trip with our last night spent in castle hotel that was relatively close to Charles de Gaulle Airport for our car rental return and our journey home the next day.
Reflecting on all the places we visited during this trip, it truly was a wonderful and memorable experience. From the iconic city of Paris, to the grandeur of the Loire Valley, to the awe-inspiring beauty of Mont St. Michel, to learning about Da Vinci, to the joyful Honfleur and the extraordinary cliffs of Etretat, and to the tears and gratitude of remembrance at the war memorials - this trip captured so much emotion throughout. We simply wanted to continue driving, exploring and learning. A highly recommended trip!
